Where to Find Big Bucks for This Muzzleloader Hunting Season

Finding trophy bucks to hunt can be easy. To live long enough to become a trophy buck, all the deer have to do is survive long enough to obtain heavy body weights and large antlers. If you can accept this fact, then we can narrow your search down quickly. Trophy bucks most often will be where no hunter hunts. There are several reasons why hunters don’t hunt certain areas.

Most muzzleloader hunters:
* don’t like to cross water to reach their hunting sites where no one else hunts, because most often they either will have to wear a pair of waders or take a canoe or a boat with them.
* don’t hunt in very-thick cover areas, because they know, if they go into that thick cover, they will spook the deer that are there, and they won’t be able to see well enough to spot deer as they move through thick cover.
* don’t hunt usually on properties less than 50 to100 acres. They believe that the more acres they have to hunt, the bigger and better bucks they can find.
* don’t hunt generally where they have to knock on doors and get permission to hunt.
* don’t ask to hunt properties where they see long driveways leading up to very-expensive houses, because they are intimidated by long driveways and expensive houses.

However, the properties with the long driveways and expensive houses are the types of properties I target. When you knock on the door of that expensive house, the person will say, “No, you can’t hunt my property,” or, “Yes, you can hunt my property.” This is the only two answers you will get.

I tell the landowner that if I can get exclusive rights to hunt his property, I will help manage his deer herds and I will help with his other property problems. I’ll cut grass, weed whack grown-up areas and fix and build fences. I try and help the landowner any way I can, if that landowner gives me exclusive permission to hunt that property.

Most of the lands I hunt are from as little as 6 acres to as much as 400 acres. I always look for properties in areas where I’ve seen big bucks. Once I get the exclusive rights to hunt that property, not only do I learn all I can about the property, but also all I can about the properties that border the land where I can hunt. Once I have 6 to 20 acres or more to hunt, if all the property around is being hunted heavily, then that little piece of property that nobody probably ever has hunted before has become a sanctuary for big deer. The more the neighbor’s property is hunted, the more big bucks they will push onto the 6- to 20-acre sanctuary that nobody hunts, but where I’ll set-up.

Next I put-up trail cameras on these small acreages, to try to determine the buck-to-doe ratio and the number of older-age-class bucks that either live in that sanctuary or will stay there during daylight hours. I leave my trail cameras up all year long. This way, I get plenty of pictures of the bucks living on the property and can learn where and when the older-age-class bucks move into these sanctuaries during hunting season. This gives me a better idea on the time during the season I need to hunt this property, and it lets me know at what time the bucks are walking in front of my trail cameras. Too, I identify pinch points and funnels on the properties, because these types of areas are where the deer are most likely to travel to get from one point to another point.

When hunting season comes in, I become a scent freak. I:
* bathe in scent-eliminating soap;
* wash the towel I dry off with in scent-eliminating clothes wash;
* wear a carbon suit to absorb my odor made by Scent-Lok.
* carry odor-eliminating spray in the woods; and
* won’t hunt an area without a favorable wind.

I may have to walk a mile or more out of my way to get to my stand site without the deer seeing or hearing me.

By: Mike Monteleone of Westminster, Maryland, who has been hunting deer for 34 years. He hunts small properties in Maryland, Pennsylvania and Delaware. He gets exclusive permission to be the only hunter who hunts these lands.

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Farmers and Landowners Have Problems Muzzleloader Hunters Can Solve

In many areas of the country, deer populations are out of control. The deer come in at night and feed on flower beds and shrubbery that landowners have planted around their houses. The deer will destroy gardens and crops and often cause vehicle accidents, especially on affluent properties in suburbia.

If the landowner doesn’t hunt or chooses not to hunt, he has no way to control that deer herd. On many of the small properties I hunt that are from 6 acres to 400 acres, the landowner may want me to harvest every deer that I can off that property. However, when I explain I am willing to take the surplus deer off the property, but I want to leave some bucks, so I will have deer to hunt every year, the landowner usually agrees to let me hunt his property that way.

We all figure you can’t manage a deer herd with much success on properties as small as 6 acres. But as soon as I get permission to hunt, I put out trail cameras to inventory the herd that lives on or passes through that property. I try to learn the buck population and how many older-age-class bucks are using that land as a sanctuary.

I identify the landowners, who own property adjacent to the land I can hunt, and learn if the adjacent landowners allow any hunting. Then I develop a deer-management program. I’ll suggest to the property owners and hunters on adjacent properties to the land I hunt how to better manage their deer herds and also allow those deer to move into the older-age-classes for heavier body weights and larger antlers.

Three or four times per year I’ll have meetings with adjacent property owners and share my trail-camera pictures with them, and they’ll share their trail-camera pictures with me. By all of us studying all the pictures we can, we get a really-good idea of what our buck-to-doe ratios are on the lands. This information allows us to decide how-many does we need to harvest off our properties to maintain or reduce the size of the deer herd.

We determine which bucks will go on our hit list (those that can be taken), and which bucks we need to allow to survive to become older-age-class bucks. By all the property owners agreeing to the same management scheme, we are able to determine the number of does we want to harvest each year, and we all agree which individual bucks need to be on our hit list. With this type of management effort from the landowners, we may have 1,000 acres to 5,000 acres to manage under the same management program that produces more deer and bigger bucks for all the property owners.

So, don’t overlook those small places that most muzzleloader hunters believe are too small to hunt. They may become trophy-buck sanctuaries, where you may be able to take older-age-class bucks year after year.

By: Mike Monteleone of Westminister, Maryland, who has been hunting deer 34 years. He hunts small properties in Maryland, Pennsylvania and Delaware. He gets exclusive permission to be the only hunter who hunts these lands.

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Muzzleloading Hunters and the Two Man Deer Drive

Muzzleloader season for deer arrives early in many states. Usually after the first day or two of the season, the bucks know where the hunters are moving and the areas where there’s hunting pressure they need to avoid. Most often they’ll move into thick cover where hunters can’t see them. Two friends of mine in Mississippi have developed one of the best strategies I’ve ever seen for taking these early-season bucks in thick cover. However, they use this strategy successfully throughout the year and have been very effective at harvesting bucks with big antlers and heavy body weights. Jodie and Donald Spence of Monticello, Mississippi, are probably two of the best deer hunters I’ve ever met. Their two-man strategy consistently has paid big-buck dividends for them on both public and private lands. They don’t start hunting until about 8:30 or 9:00 am, and before they begin their hunt, they identify thick-cover areas where no other hunters hunt. Most of these regions are smaller than a half of a city block. They approach the area from downwind, and either Jodie or Donald put up a tree stand on the downwind side of that thick cover as quietly as possible.

Once Jodie’s in the stand, Donald then circles that thick-cover area and gets upwind of the thicket. “I start off by walking all the way across the upwind side of the thicket,” Donald Spence explains. “Jodie and I don’t use any type of odor killer when we’re hunting this way. I want my human odor to go all the way through that thicket. Next I’ll walk a zigzag pattern back and forth through the thicket trying to move as slowly and quietly as I can. Occasionally, I’ll pick-up a dry stick and break it. After I break the stick, I don’t move again for another 30 seconds to a minute. Then I continue to move as quietly and slowly as possible. If there’s a buck holding in that thicket, I want him to know I’m there, but I don’t want him to know exactly where I am. He can smell me, but because I’m moving slowly and quietly, he only may hear me when I stop to break a stick.

“As I get closer to the buck, because he doesn’t know where I am, he usually will get up, start sneaking through the thicket and possibly sneak out at the ends or the sides of the thicket. Using this type of thick-cover man drive, either Jodie or I will get a shot at the buck, because he’s usually walking and looking back instead of running out of the thicket. I’m convinced that most hunters don’t use their human odor to their advantage to move deer. Jodie and I trade-off being the stander and the driver. Most of our drives won’t take 20 to 45 minutes to put on, because we’re hunting small thickets and not large ones. Using this technique, we often can hunt six to eight different thickets during a day of hunting. We’ve found that this is the most-productive way that two hunters who work together have the greatest chance to take an older-age-class buck that most other hunters never see.

“Another advantage to using this one-man drive tactic is when we push a buck out of thick cover and don’t get a shot at him, we can go right back to that same thick-cover place the following week, put a stander where we’ve seen the buck come out of cover and repeat that same kind of drive. The second time we hunt that thicket we’ll most often be able to harvest the buck we haven’t gotten the first time we’ve hunted it.” During muzzleloading deer season, consider a man drive to take bucks. This tactic has and does work.

By John E. Phillips, outdoor writer and avid deer hunter the past 50 years.

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Remember Deer Become Nervous When They Can’t See or Hear the Hunter

I’ve learned over the years that deer see more hunters than hunters see deer. I learned this lesson 30-50 years ago when we put on dog-deer drives in my home state of Alabama. Back then, dog hunting for deer was the way 90 percent of the people in Alabama hunted. We would have a drive that involved dogs and drivers. The drivers would walk through the woods yelling and moving into thick cover to try to spook the deer toward the line of standers waiting to take shots with their 12-gauge shotguns. “When you come up to a thick briar patch or a gall berry or a cane thicket, stop, and stand still for about 3 minutes,” Mr. Powell, our hunt master, told all the drivers. “Those older bucks know where you’re at as long as you’re walking and hollering. Once you stop and remain motionless and quiet, they can’t pinpoint you. They get nervous and will come out of the cover, and then you can take a shot at them.”

Time and time again over the years, I’ve found this wisdom to be absolutely true, not only on dog-deer drives, but when I’m walking through the woods to my tree stand or sneaking out of the woods as I’m leaving my tree stand. As long as the deer can hear or see you, he knows where you are and the direction you’re traveling. As long as you’re not about to step on him, he’ll hold tight in the thick cover and let you walk past him. When a deer knows you’re close by, because he’s heard you walking or has seen you moving, that buck’s not worried about you. He knows you can’t see him and won’t pose a threat. Once you become invisible by wearing camouflage and not making any noise, as Mr. Powell said, the buck will get nervous and will have to leave where he is.

Almost all hunters are in a hurry to reach their stands and then later to leave their stands, whether they’re hunting from ground blinds or tree stands. Most of the time if you’ll wear camouflage, walk slowly, stop occasionally for a full minute or two before you move again, you’ll drastically increase your odds for taking that buck of a lifetime that’s heard and seen you, but no longer can determine where you are.

By John E. Phillips, longtime deer hunter and outdoor writer.

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Muzzleloading Within 300 Yards of the Main Road on Public Lands to Find Bucks

One of my favorite places to hunt is within 300 yards of the main road

A good friend of mine, used to hunt public land exclusively. When I asked him how he was taking deer on public land, he explained, “One of my favorite places to hunt is within 300 yards of the main road on public land.” Here are the strategies:

* “I walk 1/2-mile up or down a road away from my vehicle, trying to find a spot where there’s really-thick cover that no one in his right mind will try to the woods. Often, I’ll find a buck there.

* “I’ll look for deer signs next. Most hunters who find feeding or bedding sites close to the main roads will assume that deer are feeding, traveling or bedding at those sites after dark. But this may not be a correct assumption.

* “Once I find the feeding and bedding sites and the trails the deer are traveling within those 300 yards, I’ll set-up a stand site, so the deer can’t hear or see me.

* “A classic example of finding one of these spots was when I was hunting near my home at Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area located in western Kentucky and Tennessee. I found a place close to the road where three ridges ran together and dropped-off into a hollow. Numbers of white-oak acorn trees were down in the bottom of that hollow, and deer were crossing this bottom to get to another section of the public land. By reading the deer sign, I knew deer were crossing and feeding here and using a nearby cedar thicket to bed and hide. I made a stand at this site and took a really-nice buck. I’m sure everyone else who saw this spot just thought this area was too close to the road to have a chance at a buck.”

Another Hunter Tells about Close-to-the-Road Hunting

Bowhunters sometimes are more intent and serious about their deer hunting than gun hunters, primarily because they have to try and take a deer at 30 yards or less. They’ll often go deeper into the woods and learn more about deer movement than other hunters. However, their Achilles’ heels are the first 300 yards of woods away from the road, like many muzzleloading hunters. So, what Simmons has learned applies to blackpowder hunters too. “When I started scouting the wildlife-management area I planned to hunt on opening morning, I found a tree dropping acorns within sight of the main road,” Jerry Simmons, a longtime bowhunting friend, explains. “I also saw fresh deer droppings and a thicket not far from that tree. I put-up my tree stand and climbed into it about 30-minutes before daylight the next morning.

“As the sun began to come up, I could see the late arrivals driving down the road. When they slowed down and saw me in the tree, I’d wave to them. There’s no doubt in my mind that the hunters driving up and down the road thought I was an idiot bowhunter who didn’t have a clue about where to hunt. About 8:30 am, the woods became quiet with no road traffic. I didn’t see another hunter. At 9:00 am, does started coming in to feed under the acorn tree not 100-yards from the road. At 9:30 am, a fat 8-point buck stepped out, and I took him with my bow. I quickly loaded him into my pickup, took my tree stand down and checked my deer in at the station without ever seeing another hunter.

“The next weekend I went back and hunted from this same place, waved at the hunters and took a 6-point buck. I believe that first 300-yards from the road may be the very-best place to take deer that no one else sees on public lands.”

By: John E. Phillips, an avid muzzleloading hunter who’s always looking for bucks to take.

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Tips for Finding Deer on Public-Land with your CVA Muzzleloader

Where are the deer on that public land feeding, traveling and bedding?

Where are the deer on that public land feeding, traveling and bedding?

There are only two problems you have to solve to take to find Deer on public-land. However, most hunters try to solve only one. 1) Where are the deer on that public land feeding, traveling and bedding, and 2) where are the hunters hunting on public land? Most public-land muzzleloader hunters won’t travel more than 1/2-mile from their vehicles or wooded roads. Perhaps they are afraid of getting lost or they want to make sure they can get back to their vehicles to meet their buddies for lunch. They may be concerned if they take a deer further than 1/2-mile away from the car that they won’t be able to drag them out. Last, they may want to make sure they can leave their tree stands late in the afternoon and reach their vehicles before dark. If you’re willing to walk further into the woods than most hunters, you increase your odds for seeing and taking more deer. These deep woods places of success can come from previous scouting trips where you have discovered things such as deer sign, bedding, feeding, or game trails.

The other most-obvious place that deer hunters usually don’t hunt on public lands is within 300 yards of a major road. Most hunters overlook these areas, because they realize the deer can hear and see all the vehicles on the road. We also make ourselves believe that hunting pressure begins at the road and moves away. The deer learn to read hunters just as the hunters themselves learn to pattern the deer. It is as though the deer realize that just after daylight until about 10:30 or 11:00 am, they’ll rarely see a hunter within 300 yards of the road. They also know that in the afternoon, say after 2:00 pm, until an hour before dark, there won’t be any hunting pressure within these first 300 yards. It is during these times when they most commonly move and feed in these regions, all during daylight hours. The deer become accustomed to seeing cars drive up and down the road and recognize that an automobile doesn’t pose any threat to them. Secondly most blackpowder hunters park their trucks in places that have paths going further back into the woods or where there are trails they can use to reach their stands. Because the deer’s nose is very keen, each night after the hunters have left the woods, the deer can use his nose to find where hunters have been during the daylight hours. They learn to avoid these places, and they can also develop a sense of what time of day the hunters are most likely to be in certain sections of the woods.

Don’t ever doubt that older-age-class bucks know more about you then you know about them. For this reason, try finding thick cover and a feeding site within the first 300 yards of the property, close to the road. Watch your wind pattern, make sure you are clear of shooting towards the road, and be mindful of property lines. You may just find you will have a productive place to take a deer where no other hunters are hunting.

By: John E. Phillips, outdoor writer and 50-year veteran of deer hunting

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Why would I need to change my Quick Release Breech Plug in my CVA Muzzleloader

I was asked to post an article recently at The World Hunting Club on “How to change your QRBP (Quick Release Breech Plug)?“. The question came up “Why would I need to change my QRBP?” and so we decided to respond to those who may be wondering this question.

Gas seal is busted – When the primer ignites the powder the QRBP has a gas seal where the fire comes out. This prevents fouling, heat and pressure from getting into your threads of the breech plug and the barrel. This is what allows you to remove the breech plug with no tool. However, if this seal became damaged you will need to replace the breech plug. No matter how careful most of us try to be, accidents happen.

Having a spare – In the sport of hunting it is always in a hunter’s best interest to be as prepared as possible. If you are on a three day hunt with no way a getting your breech plug replaced because you just noticed that your QRBP is damaged, that would not be good. It is in your best interest to have a spare readily available to be changed out at a moment’s notice.

Blackhorn 209 – If you are using Blackhorn 209 powder and you run into the issue of miss fires or you are having hang fires you will need to change your breech plug to the one that will eliminate this issue. CVA has Breech Plug AC1610BH (for the CVA Apex) and AC1611BH (for all other models).

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Select The Bucks For Your Hit List Now

The hunters who consistently take older-age-class bucks each season often have one to five mature bucks selected to hunt by the end of August. These hunters know where their mature bucks live, where they bed, and where they travel. Let’s look at some secrets that can help you find the bucks you want to harvest this season.

* Travel woods and country roads, and use a quality pair of binoculars late in the afternoon to look for bucks in agricultural fields.

* Go to the green fields you’ve planted or those on state wildlife-management areas where you plan to hunt. Take binoculars, be well-camouflaged and scent-free, and look for bucks coming to the green fields. Take notes on how the bucks enter or leave the field.

* Find the trails that the bucks are using to enter and leave green fields and agricultural fields. Follow those trails back into the woods to a possible bedding site, and look for possible tree stand or ground blind places.

* Set-up a trail camera on the edge of the trail to photograph deer movement. I also try to set-up a camera on the edge of the field where the deer enter and exit.

* Put out mineral licks and/or deer attractant, like Hunter’s Specialties Gorge or C’Mere Deer, to ensure you photograph most of the deer coming into the field and leaving the field.

* Learn where the oak groves are if you’re hunting in hardwood timber. Take your binoculars, and look up into the trees to spot acorns beginning to mature to help you learn where the deer will be when the acorns fall. However, if you put-out mineral blocks, deer lure, corn or some-other bait, you can start attracting deer to that oak grove even before the acorns fall, and get trail-camera pictures of the bucks in that region.

* Use one trail camera per 100 acres on the property you hunt before the season to photograph about 90 percent of the deer living there. As the rut arrives, your camera scenes will change. New bucks will come on to the property, and bucks you already have photographed will leave the property chasing does. However, now that the bucks’ antlers are growing, you can identify the bucks you want to hunt once the season begins.

* Learn what times these bucks are moving along their trails, once you’ve identified the bucks you want to hunt. You already have identified trees for stands or areas for ground blinds while scouting. Now is the time to cut your shooting lanes for these sites. Too, use a small hand saw, pruning shears or loppers to cut trails through thick cover, allowing you to enter and exit your stand site without being seen or heard.

* Know what wind direction you need to enter and exit your stand site without the deer smelling you. Most of your stand sites should be facing the direction from which the dominant wind will come. For instance, in the Southeast, the most-dominant wind comes from the northwest.

* Consider air movements (thermals) that occur in the morning and afternoon to determine whether your stand site is a morning or an afternoon stand. If the deer are coming over a ridge toward food in the afternoon and going back on that same route early in the morning, you may want to put your stand site at the top of the ridge facing the dominant wind direction. This way, your scent will be blown up and away from the deer. You won’t hunt from this stand in the afternoon, because the thermals will be moving down the mountain and carrying your scent to the deer.

* Remember, you play like you practice. To increase your odds for taking an older-age-class buck, start preparing now. Identify the bucks you want to take this season, prepare your places to take them, and study your trail-camera photographs to help you identify the bucks on your hit list. Then you’ll have done almost everything necessary to take that buck of a lifetime this season.

By Chad Schearer, a western big game guide and host of “Shoot Straight with Chad Schearer” on the Sportsman Channel (www.shootstraighttv.com/).

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Use Quality Batteries in Trail Cameras and Attract More Deer

I never have understood why...

I never have understood why…

I never have understood why hunters would buy really-nice trail cameras and put the cheapest batteries they could buy in those trail cameras. Then they wondered why those batteries died all the time, or why the cameras quit making good pictures. Remember, the colder temperatures that camera is exposed to, the more energy that cold weather will pull out of your batteries. I recommend the Energizer Advanced Lithium Batteries. I put these kind of batteries in my DLC Covert cameras at the beginning of deer season and don’t change the batteries until the end of deer season. Even when I change the batteries, they still have life in them.

Deer season starts for me in June when I put out my cameras to inventory my deer herd, watch the bucks’ antlers grow and begin to pick out the bucks I’m going to hunt. My deer season ends in February after deer season has been closed several weeks, because I want to get pictures of the bucks that have made it through deer season. I’ll only use one set of those Energizer Advanced Lithium Batteries per trail camera from June through February. The Energizer Advanced Lithium Batteries sell for about $20. They come in a pack of 4, and I use 8 batteries in my camera. So, I spend about $40 in batteries per season per camera. So, take a little extra time, spend a little extra money, and consider the possibility of using the best batteries you can find. You may get good results from less-expensive batteries from June through September or even into October in some areas of the country. But, when cold weather hits, those inexpensive batteries may not last but a day or two after a cold front.

Attract More Deer to Your Trail Cameras:

If you’re checking your trail cameras every 3 days, your human odor has saturated the area where

Attract More Deer to Your Trail Cameras

Attract More Deer to Your Trail Cameras

your trail cameras are. So, in states where you can use attractants or bait, I make up my own scent attractants. The spray I mix up has apple juice, flavoring, molasses, sugar and anything else I can think of that has a fruity sweet smell. I dump all those ingredients into a pot and cook it like a stew. After my attractants cool-down, I add distilled water to my smell-good stew. After this mixture cools-down, I put it in a spray bottle and use it as both a cover scent and an attractant. I spray that attractant all over the trail I walk in and out on, also around my cameras and the trees holding my cameras. I also use the BioLogic deer attractants. There are a wide variety of choices of sprays you can use. I want this spray not only to kill my odor, but to be an attractant to put deer in front of my camera. Let’s say I set-up a trail camera in the corner of a soybean field. I not only spray the trail I walk in and out of to get to my camera, but I spray the base of the tree where my camera is mounted, the ground and bushes in front of my camera and the soybeans in the corner of that field. I spray up high as well as down low. When the deer smell this attractant, they’re going to come in and browse heavier than they do anywhere else. So, I’ll have better pictures than I’ll get if I haven’t sprayed everything.

I did some research using my homemade attractant and cover spray. I learned that if I put corn out in front of my camera, a buck would stay in front of the camera about 3 minutes and then leave.

Dave Parrott, an avid deer hunter from Louisville, Kentucky.

Dave Parrott, an avid deer hunter from Louisville, Kentucky.

When I used my spray, as I recommended and put it on everything, the bucks would stay in front of my camera for 8 to 10 minutes. So, my spray attractant is causing bucks to stay in front of my cameras twice as long as they will if I just put shelled corn in front of my camera.

By: Dave Parrott, an avid deer hunter from Louisville, Kentucky, who has a technology background and says he’s obsessed with developing game cameras and learning more effective ways to use them to understand more about deer.

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Learn 2 Tips About Trail Cameras That Will Help You Be Better At Hunting Deer

The Problem with Moisture:

The Problem with Moisture...

The Problem with Moisture…

The biggest enemy of your trail camera is moisture. You’re putting out a piece of electronic equipment and leaving it there, in all types of weather. Putting any type of electronics in the woods and exposing those to weather is the worst thing you can do. Today I use DLC Covert cameras, which are inexpensive and have really-good seals to keep the elements out. However, when you’re opening and closing the box your camera is mounted in, if there’s any humidity in the air, you’re putting that humidity inside your camera box. The best way to solve this problem is with Silica Gel Packets, small, gelatin packets that absorb moisture. When I take my camera out of the box, I’ll put one of those packs right next to the batteries and then seal the camera back in its case. This way, if any moisture gets in your camera box, that little inexpensive packet will protect your batteries. Regardless of what brand you get, I strongly recommend you always use one of these packs in your trail camera box, close to the batteries. Some of these absorbent packs will change color when they’ve absorbed all the moisture they can hold. To recharge these packs, you can take them home with you and put them in a microwave. The heat will draw the moisture out of the packs, and you can reuse them. These little absorbent packs are the best items you can use to keep your camera working in all types of weather.

The Position of Your Trail Camera Is Very Important:

The Position of Your Trail Camera Is Very Important...

The Position of Your Trail Camera Is Very Important…

I no longer build my own trail cameras, although when they first came out, I realized what they could do and what a help they could be with becoming a better deer hunter. I built trail cameras for all my family and friends. One of the reasons I like the DLC Covert cameras is they come with a built-in viewing screen. So, once I hang my camera, I take a picture to try and see what the camera sees. Many people will just hang their trail cameras, step back from the tree and say, “That looks good.” They do this without even seeing what type of coverage the camera angle has. This reason is why many people get pictures of only half a deer. Or, the camera is aimed too high, and they have sun glare on their pictures. If the camera is too low, you’ll get a lot of raccoon and turkey pictures. But, I want my trail cameras to photograph deer. So, the rule of thumb that I use is that I want to get in front of the camera about where I think the deer will show up and make sure that the camera photographs from my waist to my knees. Then, I tilt it up just a little by putting a stick underneath the camera. What I’m trying to do is keep the raccoons and the turkeys out of the sensor range of the camera. Using this technique of mounting my camera, I get more pictures of deer and big game animals and fewer pictures of turkeys, raccoons, skunks and possums.

Dave Parrott, an avid deer hunter from Louisville, Kentucky.

Dave Parrott, an avid deer hunter from Louisville, Kentucky.

By: Dave Parrott, an avid deer hunter from Louisville, Kentucky, who has a technology background, and says he’s obsessed with developing game cameras and learning more efficient ways to use them to understand more about deer.

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